This particular Carrera Calibre 16 is the sister model of the similar TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 CV201AR.BA0715 replica watch which costs $50 more (though I am not sure why). Both have the same 41mm-wide steel case, the same Calibre 16 automatic chronograph movement, the same ceramic bezel, and the same bracelet. What makes them different is that the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 CV201AR.BA0715 has a more “vintage style” dial (with tan-colored luminant on the hands), whereas this CBM2112.BA0651 is decidedly more modern in its style.
In my opinion (and probably that of TAG Heuer), the Carrera Chronograph Calibre 16 will be the volume model for its mix of style, affordability, and timeless looks. It is a healthy blend of the modern classic Carrera Chronograph and the ultra-modern Carrera watches TAG Heuer released when run by Jean-Claude Biver. One of the most important design elements that separates this Carrera Chronograph Calibre 16 from those of “yesterday” is the use of index-style hour markers, as opposed to using two-digit Arabic numeral minute markers… as the hour markers.
The TAG Heuer Carrera is one of many timepieces inspired by the brand’s enviable history with motorsports. What I think the Carrera has been able to do, perhaps better than any other TAG Heuer racing-style watch, is blend in with contemporary fashion as a truly universal men’s watch that suggests its motorsports past in a subtle and tasteful way. Various design elements, such as the stopwatch-style chronograph pushers and the ceramic tachymeter scale bezel, are all part of that heritage. One of my favorite parts of the dial design is how the subsidiary seconds dial at 9 o’clock is designed to blend in with the dial. The chronograph subdials are, however, extra-emphasized, leading to a more symmetrical dial layout than a three-register watch with this layout usually offers.
The movement
At its core, however, the Carrera Calibre 16 is just a solid daily wear with a handsome design, powered by the workhorse Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph movement. Interestingly- this particular design is not available with the in-house-made TAG Heuer Calibre 1887, as may have been the case a few years ago. Instead, if you want a slightly larger version of this same watch in a 43mm-wide case, you can opt for the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 DD (for example, the reference CV2A1V.BA0738). It features a strikingly similar design but with a few notable changes that include the larger 43mm-wide (versus 41mm-wide) case, “classic” minute markers dial, and a day of the week window next to the date window. It also features the same Valjoux 7750 automatic movement.
The angular cuts on the steel case give the Carrera Chronograph a very masculine and modern look but one that is solidly connected to the Heuer Carrera watches of yesterday. Capped with a domed sapphire crystal and water resistant to 100 meters, these watches are also suitable for most sporty situations — though TAG Heuer really intends them as “sport lifestyle” watches. For whatever reason, watch enthusiasts typically shy away from talking too much about modern Carrera watches, but that might just be because they are typically associated with having appeal for mainstream consumers. That doesn’t make them any less horologically attractive.
The dial
Elements such as the ceramic bezel and some of the dial aesthetics are contemporary to this generation of the TAG Heuer Carrera, but overall, the feeling you get when wearing these attractive timepieces has remained consistent over the last decade or so, and that is a good thing. TAG Heuer has slowly released improvements, and I think the next step is to figure out how to include its Isograph hairsprings into the Calibre 16 (Valjoux 7750) movement. That is down the line, however…
The sharp lugs of the Carrera case have, in my opinion, always looked good on a bracelet versus a strap. The Carrera bracelet is about as elegant as you can get but still look like your favorite building material is angular concrete blocks. Its a handsome look, and I think it will appeal to guys really seeking a masculine shout in their wristwatch (though not everyone is looking for that).
While the bracelet is comfortable, and it does has a relatively diminutive fold-over deployant clasp, TAG Heuer might consider adding more features to the Carrera bracelet at some point. Again, there is nothing wrong with it, but buyers today want special features in bracelets such as micro-adjusting clasp, quick-release system, or other novelties to help products but that much more distinctive. I will, however, say that the bracelet is elegant from a construction standpoint, with no external-facing screws or pins, and a deployant —as I referenced above — that is not thicker than the bracelet. I think TAG Heuer might want to try its own take on What Tudor did with the spring-loaded Pelagos bracelet. That was such an effective way to make a watch bracelet comfortable yet secure, and yet no one has since tried to do anything quite like it. TAG Heuer has the design lab to do it, and I bet the Carrera Chronograph is the place to debut it.
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